Frequently Asked Questions

HomeGuide's 2026 figures put installed spray foam at $1.50 to $5.00 per square foot, with open-cell at the low end and closed-cell at the high end. A crawl space runs $2,000 to $4,000 in that guide and a whole house $8,000 to $20,000. Your written estimate after the visit is the price.

It depends on what gets foamed. HomeGuide puts a whole house at $8,000 to $20,000 and Fixr at $10,000 to $30,000, but many 2,000 square foot homes only need foam in a few areas, like the roof deck over attic ducts or the crawl space walls, with blown-in elsewhere. We price area by area.

At HomeGuide's $1.50 to $5.00 per square foot, about $2,250 to $7,500 depending on foam type and thickness. Closed-cell costs more per square foot than open-cell. Access and prep change it, and our written estimate is the actual price.

Mostly because of poor installs: foam sprayed too thick in one pass, foam that hid a roof leak, or sealed attics planned without the HVAC system in mind. Some inspectors also want to see the roof deck and the sill for termites. A careful plan, the right thickness, inspection access and paperwork answer most of those concerns.

Georgia's code lists R-38 for ceilings in Climate Zone 3. ENERGY STAR recommends R-49 for an uninsulated Zone 3 attic, or adding R-38 where 3 to 4 inches are already there.

If it is damp, musty or has standing water, insulation alone will not last. A sealed vapor barrier, closed vents and sometimes drainage or a dehumidifier come first, then the walls get insulated. If it is dry, insulating the floor above may be enough.

Open-cell is the common choice under roof decks in Middle Georgia because it seals air well at lower cost. Closed-cell gives more R-value per inch. We look at your roof framing and HVAC before recommending one.

Some shingle makers have specific requirements for unvented attics. Check your roofing warranty before sealing the attic; we can tell you what to ask.

HomeGuide's guidance is 24 hours or more.

Termites do not eat foam, but foam can hide their mud tubes. That is why we leave the sill area visible for inspection.

If the crawl space is damp, musty or the floors feel clammy, it usually is. It keeps humid air off ducts and wood.

Often yes in this climate, or a small supply of conditioned air. We size it to the space.

Not when the space is fully encapsulated and moisture is controlled. Sealing vents without a barrier can make things worse.

Water has to be handled first, usually with grading, gutters or a drain.

Code lists R-38 for Zone 3 ceilings; ENERGY STAR recommends R-49 for an uninsulated attic.

Usually leaky, thinly insulated kneewalls and a poorly sealed floor over the garage. Sealing and insulating those fixes most of it.

No. It can help reduce heat from the roof but does not replace air sealing and insulation to depth.

Usually, if the old is dry and clean and the ceiling has been sealed.

Often 1 to 2 inches on walls and more on the roof, depending on how you cool and use it.

Yes, closed-cell foam keeps humid air off the steel, which is what causes the condensation.

Yes, with things moved away from the walls and covered.

Many foam jobs have a minimum; HomeGuide cites $1,000 to $2,000 or more.

For an open attic floor over a sealed ceiling, it reaches the same R-value for less. Foam is better where air sealing and space are the issue.

Most attics take a few hours to a day.

Some, which is why we install to the settled depth.

Yes, if the old is dry and clean.

If it is wet, moldy, smells or shows droppings, it should come out.

Only after testing; asbestos-positive material needs a licensed abatement contractor.

Most attics take a day; crawl spaces vary.

Usually because it was installed wrong or hid damage. Getting it right the first time avoids removal.